Light right where you chop and read recipes, with no cords on the counter. We hardwire LED under cabinet lights to a wall switch or dimmer and hide the wiring.
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Next Phase Electric installs hardwired under cabinet lighting in kitchens across South King and Pierce County, and in bars, laundry rooms and workshops. Most jobs are LED tape in a slim aluminum channel or LED light bars, run from a small driver hidden in a cabinet and switched from the wall. Code keeps lighting off the countertop outlet circuits, so we feed it from a lighting circuit. Swapping old lights to LED is a few hours; a whole kitchen with new wiring can take a day, and it is quickest during a remodel, before the backsplash goes on.
From swapping old pucks to a whole kitchen of hidden LED.
One continuous line of light with no hot spots, in a slim aluminum channel with a diffuser. The cleanest look under modern cabinets.
Rigid bars linked end to end. Quick to fit, and one section can be replaced later on its own.
Hot halogen pucks and buzzing fluorescent tubes swapped for LED, usually on the existing wiring and switch.
We bring power from a lighting circuit, hide the wire in the wall or the cabinets, and add a switch or dimmer.
Three things that make the difference between nice and annoying.
Code keeps lights off the countertop outlet circuits. We feed them from a lighting circuit, with the driver tucked in a cabinet where it can be reached later.
Wire runs through the wall, the cabinet backs or the light rail, never across the counter. During a remodel, before the backsplash, it is easiest of all.
A warm white that matches your ceiling lights, mounted toward the front edge so it lights the counter instead of glaring off it. On a dimmer if you want it soft at night.
Both light the counter. Only one hides the cord.
| Plug-in | Hardwired | |
|---|---|---|
| Power | A cord to a countertop outlet. | Wired to a lighting circuit, nothing on the counter. |
| Switch | A button on the light, or a remote. | A wall switch or dimmer, next to your other kitchen lights. |
| Look | A cord and a plug in view. | No cords. Wiring hidden in the wall or cabinets. |
| Outlets | Uses one of your countertop outlets. | Leaves every outlet free for appliances. |
We install the lights you bought, or tell you what to buy for the length of your cabinets. Measure the run of upper cabinets when you book.
Licensed, bonded and insured. Background-checked crew.
Tell us how many feet of cabinets, whether there are lights there now, and send a photo of the kitchen. A technician reaches out within 1 business hour.
Where the power comes from, where the driver and switch go, and how the wire gets in without opening more wall than needed. Exact price before any work.
Lights in, wiring hidden, switch or dimmer set, packaging taken away.
Three things set the price: how many feet of cabinets, whether there is wiring there now, and how hard it is to get power to the spot. Swapping old lights to LED on existing wiring is the shortest job. You get the exact price before any work starts.
Usually, yes. We fish the wire through the wall or run it through the back of the cabinets, and the driver sits inside a cabinet. A small hole in a cabinet bottom is often the only sign.
Plug-in lights are fine for a renter or a single cabinet. Hardwired is the choice for a whole kitchen: no cords, a wall switch, and every countertop outlet left free.
Yes, with a driver and a dimmer that are made to work together. Mismatched ones flicker or buzz, so we match them.
Yes. LED runs cooler, lasts longer and usually goes on the same wiring and switch.
From a lighting circuit, not the countertop outlets, which code keeps for appliances. If there is no lighting circuit nearby, we run one. New wiring gets a permit, which we pull.
Swapping existing lights to LED takes a few hours. A whole kitchen with new wiring can take a day. It is quickest during a remodel, before the backsplash goes on.
Book online or call. Tell us how many feet of cabinets.